Upper garment and Chinese woman's pleated skirt

清末愯缎檊絏女盾彩绣百益眧

The lightweight gauzy fabrics and sophisticated decoration of this top and shirt indicate that they were designed for summer wear by a woman of the Chinese upper classes. It is rare to find such an ensemble intact.

The top opens down the center; the opening is secured with a pair of buttons twisted into floral shapes and with pendants that feature a combination of openwork and embroidery. This simple garment has elaborate black satin trim on the side seams and elsewhere; the trim is decorated with the head of a wish-granting wand (ruyi) above which floats a butterfly. The gauze is woven with a design of the character for long life (shou) in medallions surrounded by five bats; this grouping represents the Five Blessings (longevity, wealth, health, love of virtue, and a peaceful death). The blue cuffs are embroidered with a bold design of plum blossoms and narcissus a pairing that also represents longevity.

The formal pleated skirt is decorated with designs formed by gold and silver threads. Its long, thin pendants with wish-granting symbols sway with the movement of the body.