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Chinese woman's formal domestic short coat
Chinese woman's formal domestic short coat

Chinese woman's formal domestic short coat

Place of OriginChina
Dateapprox. 1850-1911
DynastyQing dynasty (1644-1911)
MaterialsSilk damask with embroidered satin weave silk collar and bands
DimensionsH. 39 3/4 in x W. 61 1/2 in, H. 100.1 cm x W. 156.2 cm
Credit LineGift of Mrs. Ursula W. Bingham
Object number1988.32.30
DepartmentChinese Art
ClassificationsTextiles
On View
Not on view
More Information

During the Qing dynasty, laws forbade people of Manchu descent to wear Chinese clothing, although women had more latitude in styles than men. The style of this robe suggests that it was worn by a Han Chinese woman rather than a Manchu woman: the wide sleeves cut all in one with the body of the robe along a central seam and the neckline with a stand-up collar are common details for native Chinese dress. The robe would have also been paired with a pleated skirt—a traditional outfit for Han Chinese women.

The body of this robe is silk damask with a woven design of the attributes of the Eight Taoist Immortals: fan, gourd and iron crutch, fish drum, lotus, basket of flowers or peaches, sword and fly whisk, pair of beaters for keeping time, and flute. The white satin trim along the hem and the "cloud collar" is embroidered with depictions of women engaged in various virtuous pursuits such as the Four Scholarly Pursuits (siyi): playing the qin musical instrument, playing chess, reading, and painting.

The cloud collar (yunjian) is the four-pointed scrolled motif covering the neckline and shoulder of the robe. Resembling the heads of the ruyi wish-granting wand, the cloud collar symbolizes the blessing of "may all your wishes come true" (shishi ruyi).

Subject
  • fan
  • gourd
  • drum
  • lotus
  • basket
  • flower
  • peach
  • sword
  • flywhisk
  • flute