Woman's blouse (lemba)

Before the development and spread of weaving technology, clothing made of felted bark was likely worn across island Southeast Asia. By the nineteenth century the highlands of Sulawesi were one of the few places in Indonesia where women still made bark-cloth textiles and clothing. They used the bark to make blankets, loincloths, skirts, and blouses, for both everyday and ceremonial occasions.

The light color of this woman’s blouse indicates it was likely made of mulberry bark. The darker and heavier bark of ficus trees were used for everyday wear, but mulberry bark was reserved for special occasions. A piece of clothing made of heavier cloth could last half a year, but the more delicate mulberry bark textile might only last a week. They could not be washed, just set in the sun for disinfection.